5 comments on “More from Bulow Woods

  1. We so enjoy your posts… You live in such a different world than our high desert and mountains! Our Creator has a very vivid imigination and has blessed us with such diversity!

  2. Wonderful, as always!
    Do you mostly use fiber or rc paper for your darkroom copies? I understand they dry first, then being toned another day. Do you have special drying equipment?
    I have not yet solved my drying issue, but I know I love the fiber prints though the rc paper is much easier to handle. And I know that I want to do both lith printing and toning…
    My gosh, I can not wait for my darkroom being finished….. 😉

    • Hi Marie,
      As always thanks for your very nice comments.
      Regarding type of paper and drying.
      We use only fiber paper for our prints. I use RC for contact sheets only.
      For toning almost all FB can be toned to varying degrees, where there are more RC that do not take to toning.
      OF course FB is more expensive. We have been using Arista EDU Ultra which is supposed to be a re branded Foma or Fomabron (Made in Czech).
      I tried toning a sheet of RC in selenium- it did OK tried to sepia tone one and it looked like a rainbow of very ugly yellows.
      now the drying issue- all the books and articles seem to create an enormous “problem” about drying. Here is my very simple system for getting very flat prints.
      1. Wash print
      2. use a piece of glass and lay print face down and squeegee the back lightly while holding the top edge with thumb so it wont slip
      3. Lay face up on a screen to dry. DO NOT lay emulsion to the screen as many people suggest unless you want the “Glossy Waffle pattern look”After 6 to 8 hours it will be dry but somewhat curled on edges.
      4. Stack the dried prints on top of one another.
      5. Lay a piece of CLEAN glass on the top of pile.
      6. Set a heavy weight on top leave overnight and come back to VERY flat prints.
      This works very well. Of course I don’t do this until after they’re toned. Between printing and toning it doesn’t matter if they’re curled a little.
      I do have a 2 sided drier that I only use for 11×14 prints.
      We tried Lith printing and only marginally succeeded. There just seemed to be too many variables. We would get one good print and the next 2-3 would be disasters. We even had Rudman’s book, but to me his book book totally leaves a lot of unanswered questions.

      We can’t wait to see your work from YOUR darkroom. Our darkroom is our sanity equalizer. Is is so easy to go in there and forget about the world outside.
      If I can help you out with any other questions feel free to contact me at skarmc@yahoo.com if you like.

      Looking forward to seeing more of your fine work.

      Marks

      • Thank you very much for your kind answer!
        That’s good to hear about the fiber paper, didn’t like RC paper either, just for contact sheets or so. I have ordered som Foma fiber paper, that is what they recommend for lith printing as well as “usual” black and white prints, and they are much cheaper than Ilford. So I’ll start from there.
        But I’m far far ahead of my crafts men, hehe… They are about to start next week…. They said they would start this week, but oh no…
        So I’m almost having fever here… My head is spinning…. 😉

        About the drying process; well that is good to hear, thank you very much! I have a print dryer from the days back then, but if I remember I didn’t ues the drying function, it was getting to hot, so I only used it for flattening. But there was some problems if I made more than 3-4 copies per “batch”, but with a piece of glass and some heavy books, I guess that problem is solved too.

        Thanks a LOT again for your kind answer, I appreciate it very very much!
        Have a lovely day and please give my regards to Joey too.
        Marie

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